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Lyra – 9 months – Active Stay

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Now that Lyra has some  nice drive to work with, I am teaching her an “active” stay.

In my training there are two types of stays, and they are distinctly different.

A “passive” stay is boring.  Nothing interesting is going to happen, so go ahead and relax while you wait it out.

An “active” stay is exciting.  Be prepared for an explosive release.

I teach passive stays in my house and often with multiple dogs at the same time.  I make no effort to use motivation on a passive stay; I just need you to stay there.  For a day or two I’ll use cookies to help the dog for the first few seconds, but mostly I rely on the fact that I will put the dog back – every time they break – until they figure it out.  If I have to put you back ten times, then that is what I do.  I am gentle; I just return the dog to the spot and the position (usually a sit).  I do not reward the dog when I put them back.  I don’t care that much if they enjoy this exercise, as long as they don’t dislike it.  I start in my house so there are no fear issues and not much to distract them. I like to use older, experienced dogs in the same group, since I think the trainee learns from the behavior of the other dogs. Within a week or so, most dogs can sit or down and do nothing for a minute or more, whether I’m watching them or not.  I may use cookies here and there, but that is not the reason the dog does the stay – it’s because I will repeatedly return them if they break.  Yeah, it’s boring but it gets the job done with minimal fuss and they “get it” quickly.

I teach a passive stay when dogs are either older or calmer.  Since Lyra started calm and gets more wired with age, I started her passive stay a few months ago before she was ready for an active stay.  In the house with the other dogs she is pretty good about it.  I never do passive stays with her in a training environment;  I want all “real” training to be high energy and intense at this point.

With puppies that are wired, I rarely bother with a passive stay until they are grown up but I teach the active stay early.

An “active” stay is the opposite.  I teach that to dogs that are in drive and I care very much how they feel about it.  Lyra is ready to learn this now.

An “active” stay means something very interesting is about to happen. It is of a short duration – no more than five seconds or so.  It involves intense attention, distraction, and an exposive release.  If Lyra breaks I get excited as I put her back since I want her to remain in drive.  Whereas in a passive stay I am calm and boring, in an active stay I make sure the dog knows that this is an excting game.

Here is Lyra’s third lesson on an active stay.  She breaks in her second attempt so you can see how I handle it.  By her fourth attempt, you can see I’m adding a bit more distraction before releasing her.  Soon I will actively snap the toy around and she will be expected to hold the stay until I release her.  I’ll also add a verbal release when the toy is not moving, so that she goes on my command rather than on the action of the toy.

Lyra has had a few more lessons in active stays since this video – she gets it.  Now I can begin to use a “stay” command to set up for recalls, jumps, retrieves and wherever else I might want an explosive release.

Deprivation

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Over the last ten to fifteen years, I’m seeing an increase in the use of deprivation as a training technique.  I first heard of it in the behavioral realm….”nothing in life is free” otherwise known as “NILIF”.   In a NILIF program the dog earns everything – the dog learns to ask (by following commands) for anything they might want or need.  The dog learns that the owners controls all valuable resources, and with this recognition comes a chance to gain control of the dog’s problem behaviors.

Another common use of deprivation as a training technique is for puppy raising – commonly called “crate training”.  Puppies are deprived of their freedom when they are not supervised so they can become housebroken and learn not chew up your house or personal belongings.  The dog learns the rules about where to pee and what to chew, thereby hastening his movement towards trustworthy family member, while the human benefits by having the house left relatively intact. While crate training has room for abuse, as a generic training technique it provides a logical and humane answer to the realities of puppies.

The purpose of this article is not about either of these uses of deprivation, nor is it to consider the choice of some individuals to have dogs live their lives in outdoor kennels because they believe this is how dogs should live.  The purpose of this article is to look at the ethics of using deprivation as a performance training technique – withholding  food, movement  and opportunities for social interaction – to increase the dog’s motivation to earn those things within a performance context.

One of the challenges in considering the ethics of this training method is coming up with a definition.  Deprivation training  is not as much a method as much as possibilities on a continuum.  Deprivation suggests a change from what is “normal” – if normal is a four hour daily walk and steak for dinner, then a one hour walk and kibble for dinner must feel like a jail sentence for that dog.   On the other hand, if “normal” has never included any walks at all and boredom is standard fare, then the dog isn’t truly deprived as much as “missing out” on a more interesting home – he never knew the difference.

I do not believe that there is a black and white definition for acceptable or unacceptable levels of deprivation, but it is a matter that each individual trainer might wish to contemplate. For example, in my home, I do not allow my young dog to play with my student’s dogs though she would like to do so.  I do not allow her to chase squirrels in the trees , and if one of my dogs chooses not to work for me, I will end their training session.  I am comfortable with my decisions because I do not consider playing with other dogs, chasing squirrels or the right to work to be basic needs as much as privileges which are earned, and I certainly provide my dogs with an interesting and enviable quality of life.

In my mind, it comes down to the underlying motivation of the owner and the degree of discomfort experienced by the dog.  If the owner’s motivation is to create active discomfort in order to facilitate work then I am concerned; how concerned is a function of how much discomfort the dog is experiencing.  Hunger and lack of social interaction both create active discomfort – if you question whether or not boredom and social deprivation are actively uncomfortable, I’d give the example of Jaycee Dugard, the young girl who was kidnapped and held hostage in her captor’s backyard for several years.  In her recent book, “A Stolen Life, A Memoir”, she states that her boredom grew so great that she began to look forward to her captor’s visits because she so desperately craved human interaction.  The fact that he raped her on these visits did not lessen her need for social interaction, and illustrates the point that deprivation can cause as much discomfort or pain as physically applying an aversive.

It seems clear that the deprivation method is compatible with heavy handed training and motivational training alike, and is widely recommended by trainers on both ends of the spectrum. Clearly, the use of deprivation falls on a continuum, so the question becomes, where does one draw the line?  Let’s look at two examples.

In its most mild form, food deprivation is more about HOW the dog eats rather than WHETHER the dog eats. For example, in training a young dog to track,  a person might withhold their dog’s breakfast and place it at the end of the track in order to heighten their dog’s motivation.  The dog earns breakfast at the end of the track. I’m comfortable with this scenario – If a dog eats out of a bowl, off a track, or out of your hands – he still eats.  At the other end of the continuum, a dog who refuses to work may not receive any food at all, even if that takes several days, something I find more ethically challenging.

Or, take crating (deprivation of movement and social interaction); the use of a crate can create desire for work. For example, an owner chooses to train their dog in play skills when they get home from work for the day – the dog has been crated for a while so is keen to interact.  In this use of the crate, you’re using a naturally occurring event – the dog is crated when you are not home – so he is particularly excited about playing with you when he is released from confinement.   Although the trainer is  using deprivation, it is not done specifically to create boredom, so I find this acceptable. The dog will want to do something when released – might as well use that opportunity to train your dog.

This becomes more troublesome when deprivation becomes a lifestyle. Let’s say the dog is released from the crate after a long day and chooses not to play with the trainer, preferring to sniff and wander instead. If the dog is then placed back in the crate, she might not experience any freedom at all until she performs. And since it  is common to see food deprivation combined with a crate, the dog that chooses not to work may be returned to the crate hungry.

The problem with these more extreme examples is that there are many reasons why a dog might choose not to work. While proponents of deprivation training usually argue that the reason is because the dog prefers the alternatives – possibly chasing squirrels in the yard, playing with another dog, sniffing around, or simply sleeping on the couch. Unfortunately, in my experience, the reasons usually have more to do with the handler.

I teach seminars on how to play with toys.  About half of the dogs who will not play with their owners will play with me; that is because play with toys is largely a mechanical skill.  In a high percentage of cases, I can teach you to play much better simply by tweaking your mechanical skills.  Note that this has nothing to do with the dog – more crating or deprivation will not teach a dog to want to play if you don’t know what you’re doing.  You can train some dogs to play in spite of your poor skills, especially if the dog is naturally inclined to go into play easily.  But if a dog requires better handler skills to figure it out, it seems unfair to punish the dog for the trainer’s ignorance.

In addition to teaching play skills I also teach competition obedience.  Fully 90% of the problems I am asked to address are solved through a change to the handler’s mechanical skills or personal interactions with their dog.  If a dog lags and goes wide in heeling because the handler drifts about and walks slowly, then the solution is to teach the handler how to walk properly and reward in position.  Holding the dog responsible – either through a classic correction or through a round of crate deprivation – will not solve the problem if the handler’s actions are maintaining the incorrect behavior.

Sadly, deprivation training is both common and generally accepted in some dog sports with the justification that keeping dogs in a chronic state of deprivation is needed for high end performance dogs. Proponents argue that these dogs must receive all good things through work, lest they decide that work isn’t very interesting if any other options are available. If this is true, it is a rather sad commentary on the state of one’s training – the trainer is unable to make work interesting unless they actively deprive the dog of basic life requirements.  Taken to an extreme, one wonders if a performance dog has any innate value at all beyond what it can do for another; much like a motorcycle that is well taken care of and highly regarded but without rights of its own.

I haven’t even touched on the other issues that deprivation is supposed to solve – distracted dogs (that are too immature or poorly prepared to work in a particular environment), stressed dogs (who cannot function for their safety concerns), high drive dogs (owners respond too slowly to communicate effectively), low drive dogs (owners don’t recognize that their dog is temperamentally unsuited for their sport), and bored dogs ( owner’s expectations of their dog far exceeds what they are able or willing to give in return). Yet…the dog is held responsible.

Teaching is the human’s responsibility; we lead the dog.  Use of excessive deprivation specifically to create motivation is not a method I’m comfortable with, since it appears to abdicate your responsibility to train well – at the dog’s expense.  Dogs do not need to live in crates or kennels to want to work with you.  They can live normal lives, eat normal quantities of food, and get normal amounts of exercise. Your dog will still look forward to training because you can make training fun.

This essay is not about solving your training problems – I haven’t given you solutions to a dog that either cannot or will not work for you.  But I’ve suggested the place where you might want to start looking for answers – within yourself.

Lyra – Nine Months – IPO obedience

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I do not want Lyra to believe that the ONLY thing she does on the IPO field (or in the presence of the IPO helper) is protection work.  Dogs that associate the field with biting and not with obedience can end up with serious control problems later on; both in IPO obedience and in protection.

To prevent that, I’m beginning to work Lyra in obedience on the field – and in the presence of the helper.

The first few times I tried obedience on the field she spent most of her energy checking out the gopher holes.  I was sufficiently irritated that I put her away (being irritated is ok; just don’t train!)

Next she figured out that we were going to work on obedience, but I had to work to keep her focused and motivated.

Now I feel like we’re reaching a more equal partnership; I make the work possible and she rises to the occasion.  Today she was strong enough in her overall skills that I introduced the sit and down “out of motion” exercises for the first time.   I also did more “IPO” style heeling with my hand on the side of her head.  Eventually that hand will be moving, but for now I use it to position her and to give her comfort.

For those who will need to teach out of motion exercises, note that my body blocks her forward motion and my hands structure her to be correct – pretty much making it impossible for her to develop any bad habits.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vegZG9PG3m0

I don’t plan to do a lot of out of motions until her heeling is consistent, but I’d like to introduce the idea.  Next I’ll start doing them out of her “happy leaps”.

I’m thrilled with the way she holds the toy while I give the commands; it removes the issue of rewarding for position and allows her to focus on what I am asking for.

Play – Give and Take

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Today I began my student’s lesson with the following directive:

“Heel with your dog for two minutes without using a food or toy reward.  You may talk, play, put hands on, and make the heeling as interesting as possible.  At the end of two minutes, you may reward with food or toys, assuming the quality of work is good.  Go!”.

At the end of two minutes, I saw an overwhelmed dog and an exhausted handler.  What went wrong?

In an effort to follow my direction, the handler tried to use her intensity, energy, motion, and high pitched, fast paced cheering to “pull” energy out of the dog.  Unfortunately, the end result was that she 1) overwhelmed the dog, and 2) failed to notice the subtle changes in her dog’s behavior which she could have used to improve the session.

The amount of energy you give to your work must be a reflection of your dog’s energy – both what he is giving and what he needs or wants to perform well.  Instead of thinking in terms of speed, quantity of noise, and erratic motion, think in terms of ENGAGEMENT.  Are you 100% engaged with your dog?  Is he responding by engaging with you?  How have you communicated that engagement?  Are you using “bursts” of intensity and energy to reward your dog’s efforts, or are you frantic?

What can you do if your trainer tells you to use personal interaction to keep your dog working for you?

Ideally, your dog does SOMETHING to start the game of work.  Eye contact?  Smile at him!  Ears up?  Tell him he’s a fine boy!  Wagging tail?  Admire how nicely it wags!  Strong eye contact?  Make an erratic move in your heeling that rewards him for his good focus….because he was watching he saw your quick tap on his shoulder followed by a spin to the right.  Good boy; look how your handler can’t fool you!  Laugh at his efforts!  Make silly sounds!  Get slow and “stalky” in your posture, and take off running; then snap back into heeling!  Think about how adults play with children; dogs aren’t so different.

Now you have a game; a dance.  The dog and the handler should be subtly shifting the balance of engagement back and forth; you offer a play move and your dog responds.  Your dog asks to play and you agree with the right amount of energy for your dog and his stage of training.  In my mind, work and play are the same, so your dog can either offer a work based behavior or a play behavior – I’m ok with both.

If you need more raw energy from your dog to get started, go ahead and use a toy or a food game to wake your partner up; then try out your play moves.  By waking your dog up first, you’ve made it likely that SOMETHING will happen which you can acknowledge and respond to. As a general rule, I give less as my dogs give more – I expect more and more work of a higher quality before I engage in play – but when I play, then I give a lot to the game.  100%.   It’s up to me how long I play; a function of the age and developmental level of the dog, the difficulty of the work, and how I’m reading the dog on a given day.

My handler took responsibility for following my directions, but she failed to follow her dog’s cues.  In her efforts to please me, she missed the effect her energy was having on her dog.  It’s always ok to ignore your trainer; it’s never ok to ignore your dog.

At one point in the session, the handler made little “shhhh” sounds at her dog; his ears came up and he cocked his head.  THAT was an opportunity to lower her body and cock her head back at her dog; complete with a smile and wide open eyes.  Who knows where that might have gone?  Maybe he would have offered a play bow?  Or wagged his tail a little harder?  I cannot know because she did not respond to his interest; she continued on her path.  That was a lost opportunity to engage in genuine personal play.

Over that two minutes, the handler worked harder and harder, and the dog pulled back.  In a short period of time, the dog was giving almost nothing, and the handler was miserable.  If you ever feel miserable or frantic when you play, then you need to stop; you are on the wrong path.  If your dog ever disengages or shows active avoidance behaviors like sniffing, turning away from you, leaning away, etc, then it’s time to re-evaluate.

I’ll admit that this particular dog brings challenges.  He has high environmental awareness and minimal food/toy drive with his handler.   He knows all the work but is not terribly motivated to perform, regardless of the tangible rewards.   We’re exploring a new route – personal play – and waiting to see where it goes.  Not too far, in this first lesson.  But we talked, and the next lesson will be better.

Regardless of how you motivate your dog – food, toys, or play, you must remember that this is a game of give and take.  We give and take cues, games, and energy to bring out the best in our team. Initially it’s fine for the handler to start all or most of the sessions of work, but over time the dog should be attempting to engage you as soon as he sees that work is an option.

If you can, go out and train a dog today.  Study your dog.  Watch his reactions to your movements, noises, and facial expressions.  Try hands on play and hands off play. What captures his focus?  How can you blend that into your work, to get a stronger picture?

Today, allow your dog to train you.  It’s fun!

Lyra – 8.5 months Heeling

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As I worked Lyra’s heeling today, I was reminded of what a slow process it is to teach beautiful heeling.  Lyra has been heeling since she was ten weeks old, yet with six months of consistent training we still don’t work for more than ten or fifteen steps without a reward and a whole lot of verbal assistance.  Admittedly, I have pretty high expectations for those ten or fifteen steps, and they are not in a straight line.  Still….no wonder it takes so long to get into competition.

I never really considered how long it takes to get the heeling picture I want.  I just train my dogs, and one day I’m happy.  Because Lyra’s drives have been slow in developing, it’s probably taking longer than with most of my dogs simply because it’s not nearly as important to her to win whatever it is I have.  Fortunately I love heeling, and I don’t feel any great hurry to reach a finished picture.

In this video, I’m having Lyra carry a toy while we practice. I’m doing this for a few reasons.  One, I want her to realize that owning a toy isn’t very interesting if I’m not attached – we work on that all the time and this is another example of that process.  She can leave me in heeling, but then she has a toy and no one to play with.  She does not leave.  Another reason I have her carrying her toy is to make the work more challenging.  She has to work hard to hold on to her toy while giving me precise heeling – and I do expect precision.  Third, when Lyra carries the toy it’s extremely easy to reward her; all I have to do is reach out and let her bring the toy up to my hands. I like what that is doing for her heel position as well – giving her more of an upright, playful picture.  When I see what I want, I reward.  Finally, I let her carry the toy because I dont’ have to get it back; we can just keep working.  That’s efficient and gets around the issue of where exactly to hold the toy – on my body or on the ground?  I still do plenty of those as well but this is one more option.

A note about precision.  I have very high expectations of precision; “expectation” and “fun” are not mutually exclusive!  I reward a combination of effort and precision – if I’m trying to get her to move her rear on a left curve and she does it in one fluid motion, then I’m going to reward that because she is controlling her movements.  If we do a right turn and she does it with great enthusiasm; therefore over rotating to a crabbing position, then I’m going to fix it both verbally and by doing a movement that is difficult to complete if your rear is not is position (in this example a left turn or a left curve).  If you watch the video carefully, you should be able to tell, second by second, why I make the choices that I select.  If a series of movements appear to be automatic or easy for her, then something must change. The reward schedule must drop or the work must get harder.  Effort is motivated by making the work difficult – but not so difficult that she cannot succeed. In this manner you create both confidence and a habit of working hard and with natural attention.  Remember, I don’t’ have an attention command; I simply get it because that is my expectation in the work.

If you watch the sequence from 2:02 to 2:12, you’ll see what I’m striving for in this session; fluid and controlled.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ry3zNtRz1yY

Lyra 8.5 months – leaving training

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I haven’t talked about Lyra for awhile.

She’s 8.5 months old.  She continues to be a delight on so many levels; friendly, calm, and very easy to manage.   She enjoys working, though she is not obsessive about it.  Her personal play skills are coming on very nicely.  It could be that she is a playful dog by nature, or that I’ve really put in effort on those skills with Lyra.

Lyra’s drive for food and toys gets stronger every day, but we have a long ways to go before I’m going to be satisfied with her toy play.  As a result, I still spend most of our time together working on our interactions – play and toys, rather than on behavior.  She already has plenty of behaviors.

Our biggest challenge continues to be focus in public when other fast moving dogs are present. I see progress but it will take time.

Lyra doesn’t walk away from training too often anymore, but it happened today.  I was working scent articles, an activity with little real excitement and a lot of opportunity for alternatives.  I was fortunate that the videocamera was running.  What do I do when she leaves training?  At her stage of training, I am starting to end her lessons if she wanders off.  I call that an “opportunity cost”.  Not only do I not let her continue to investigate whatever has caught her eye, I also don’t bring her back to work.  She is choosing between working or returning to the house – soon she will understand that well.

I’ve been adding this opportunity cost for about a month now – I would guess that she’s had training ended approximately ten times in that month.

In this video, Lyra finds an interesting smell or sight (I’m not sure which) that pulls her away from me and off to the bushes.  I tell her we’re done and “go in the house”.  She’s done.  She returns to the house cheerfully enough, but she gets the message:

In an hour, I give her another chance.  I keep everything the same; the location and the exercise.  Again she finds something in the distance, but instead of walking away she returns to work.  You can see that here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-rIBIMUs-E

This is what I need;  bad decisions followed by good ones.  She’s getting there.  This particular training session lasted 12 minutes; her distraction point came at about seven minutes.  After that we moved on to move active work…more fun for her than scent articles.

You can also see how I’m working on our personal relationship in this second video.  I make a point of interacting with her frequently, even as she holds her ball.  I want her to value me – regardless of what toy she might be holding or whether I’m being an interesting person at that moment.

It would be more fun for me to post a video of Lyra being brilliant since I do have those videos as well.  Then again, the purpose of this blog is to record Lyra growing up – and she’s not always brilliant.  Sometimes she’s just a typical puppy doing typical puppy things on a typical puppy day.  I’m not worried yet.

What is Relationship?

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I recently had the privilege of working with a dog/handler team that had particularly good interpersonal play skills. Without using food or toys, this handler could engage her dog for several minutes at a time. Further, she could then ask the dog to work for her in this engaged state, which allowed her to space out her food rewards significantly. I was impressed because I consider “interpersonal play” to be a strong indicator of trust and mutual enjoyment between dog and handler – simply you and a dog interacting with no intermediary. I work hard to get to this point with my dogs, and it’s one the most difficult things I do in training.

Imagine my surprise when this same team was criticized soon thereafter for showing “no relationship” in a training situation. The trainer’s explanation was that the handler could not play tug with her dog for extended periods of time, and this indicated a “relationship problem”.

Playing tug is a mechanical skill. I frequently play tug with dogs in seminars – more often than not I don’t even know the dog’s name. Does this mean I have a relationship with the dog, simply because I can keep a dog engaged with me when I hold a toy? Of course not. It means I have really good mechanical skills with a tug toy. I can do the same thing with a cookie – as long as the dog KNOWS that I have the cookie, I can keep many dogs engaged with me. That is no more a relationship than if I tie a tug toy in a tree and teach my dog to grab hold and tug- surely we would not say that my dog has a relationship with the tree?

Games that involve toys DO help dog/handler teams build relationship, because it is almost impossible to play tug with a dog and not get involved personally. Good tug is a fine game of give and take; the handler studies the dog very carefully to figure out exactly how best to play with that dog, and the dog learns the rules which cause the handler to interact. Over time, the dog develops a great appreciation for the person who is able to play so well and who engages the dog in a game which is a whole of fun. But it’s not the tug itself that is building the relationship; it’s the interaction between the dog and handler. The toy is an intermediary, a useful but tangential tool.

A person can use food in exactly the same way to build a good relationship, but it’s more difficult because lazy feeding is common and easy; no energy or genuine interaction from the handler is required. Using food in training tends to create a strong relationship between the dog and cookies, but the owner may or may not be seen as significant. On the other hand, if you have the dog chase you around and jump for each cookie while you cheer and interact, then food play has the same effect as toy play; it builds the underlying relationship.

I was saddened to hear that this handler was distressed after that seminar; she no longer felt good about her relationship with her dog. What I had seen was special and unique. I felt good when I watched them; I looked forward to the day when my young puppy would see me as a wonderful person – whether or not I held a toy or a cookie. While I agree that it is in the handler’s best interest to work on developing her game of tug, the purpose of the game would be the energy it produces, not the underlying relationship. She’s already got that.

A great relationship is based on choice; the dog chooses to spend time with you because you are important to him. He feels good when he is near you. He wants to hear your voice. He is happy when you pet him gently; not to play a rousing game, but because he feels valued in your presence. Relationship is expressed when you let the dog out of a crate and he greets you before the other dogs – not because he is trained to reorient when let out of the crate, but because he genuinely enjoys your attention. Relationship is a dog that tries to get you to interact; the dog who brings you a stuffed toy not necessarily to engage in a game of tug, but as a gift. Relationship is the dog who looks to you for guidance when he is unsure of what to do or how to react. Relationship is not what you provide for the dog; it’s that special feeling and bond that develops over time, as the sum total of everything you are together. The moments you spend training, playing, and living together – these build your relationship. If your dog interacts with you only because you provide food, toys or freedom, then I’d argue that you do not have a relationship; you have a dependency.

Simply put, relationship is not food and toys; relationship is what’s left when the food and toys are gone.

Balance – food and toys

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For every one person who asks me about building food drive, nine people will ask me about how to build toy drive.  Why is that?

For starters, there is probably a strong genetic component.  A newborn puppy has the drive to eat or it dies.  That’s a pretty simple evolutionary way to ensure that a drive stays in the gene pool; hard to reproduce if you’re dead.    While it’s true that in a wild situation a dog without prey drive would also die, the reality of the modern dog is that we take care of them and they will survive just fine regardless of their prey drive – they just have to make it through the first few weeks.  Since prey drive is behind a good deal of toy play, it makes sense to me that our dogs consistently show greater food drive than toy interest.

My experience is that almost all dogs have stronger food drive than prey drive as puppies.  That’s not to say that puppies don’t play – on the contrary.  Puppies of almost all breeds will play with toys when they are very young, and the best way to nurture that interest is to keep it going as the dog grows into adulthood.  What I mean is that if given a choice 98% of puppies between the ages of 6 weeks and 4 months will choose the food.  And since most modern trainers train a dog at an early age, we tend to gravitate to whatever the dog seems to want, and what they work hardest for.

Here’s a common scenario.

A trainer buys a promising young puppy that shows both toy and food interest.  As long as the trainer starts with a toy, the puppy learns and plays nicely for the toy and shows good energy and contact with the handler.  But then the trainer wants to work on some clicker work, or luring, or refining common behaviors like position changes.  Because it is easier to teach these things with food (for many reasons but the sheer number of reps possible is the primary driver), they put the toy away and start working for food.  At that time an amazing thing happens.  The puppy’s focus sharpens, the ability to work for a long period of time increases and the rate of learning goes through the roof.  After a few fabulous minutes of training with food, the trainer picks up the toy and tries to go back to play skills.  The puppy refuses, steadfastly looking for that elusive food that was so available only a minute earlier.

How one chooses to proceed at this point is critical.

If the handler finds the rapid success with food to be highly gratifying, the tendency is to go back to the food while wistfully thinking about how much they’d like THIS dog to show better toy drive.

If you look back at Lyra’s puppy stages, you can see that her interest in food wasn’t very strong but her sustained interest in toys was even less pronounced.  I, too, found myself making decisions about how I wished to proceed, with the long term interest of “balance” fresh in my mind.

In the end, I want a balanced dog.  I want a dog that will work for food, so that I can train in crowded spaces and work on details that are easier to perform with food than toys.  I also want a dog that loves to play tug, for the energy and interaction that I can get from a tug toy.  And I want a dog that wants to play fetch, both for the ring objects that will come to be very important over time, and also for the opportunity to get in distance rewards.  And lets face it, when I’m feeling a bit lazy a ball is a lot easier than a tug.

With these considerations and interests in mind, I moved forward with each training session – always considering the balance between learning new skills (often with food), encouraging play with me (often with a tug) and rewarding movement (with either a ball, tug or food).

For some people, you will also want a balance between drive and precision, but I come down squarely on the side of drive – I will get precision over the very long run so it gets relatively little attention int the early puppy work.

So…how to proceed when your dog likes toys until….the food shows up?

Remember that your dog is likely to live a nice long life – training is not a race.  You do not need to get several new behaviors every day; you have time.  What you need more than anything is to get the attitude and focus; the love of interaction between you and your new puppy.  Over many months you can use food to shape your new behaviors, but for interaction and fun…..

Toys win.

If you train 15 or 20 times a week, each session will be five or ten minutes.  That is A LOT of training time for a young puppy, but only amounts to about 15 minutes total per day.  Divide these sessions up; no more than half will be food training sessions and the remainder will be a combination of toy and personal play.  Better yet, 75% of your sessions will be toy and play and only 25% will be food.  If you train this  much, your pupppy will know a ton of behaviors by six months of age but most important, your puppy will have had many many opportunities to play with toys.  If you cannot go back and forth (most puppies cannot), then separate out the sessions; one session only uses food and the next is only a toy play/drive building session.  If your dog loves toys, go ahead and teach a few things with that toy.  If puppy is not ready for that, just play.  Play and run and play and run some more.  Play.  Learn how your dog likes to play.  Learn to wrestle and tug and interact with your puppy, all at the same time.  Teach your puppy that running around with you for ten minutes a day is about as much fun as is possible.  At first you might find that your puppy hopes for food, but if you do not combine food and toy sessions, you will see what you can accomplish with each.  Do not go back and forth unless your puppy is willing, or you will teach your puppy to “hold out’ for the preferred resource.  Amazing how our dogs get us trained, isn’t it?

I have such a strong preference for toys over food that I am willing to let my food training slide altogether if my puppy will play with me.  Over the long run, I know the behaviors will all be taught easily and quickly, and then what is left is building up the attitude and speed – that is much harder with food than a toy.
Given a choice, I’d rather have a two year old dog who plays beautifully with it’s handler but knows no formal behaviors, over a two year old dog trained through Utility but completely dependent on every cookie.

In addition to working on toy play every day and not combining toy and food training sessions, get in the habit of using new toys all the time – you want your puppy to see you as the common element rather than a specific toy.  Learn about drive building toys vs. training toys, and use toys that your puppy finds highly motivational.  When you go in public, be prepared to go back to easier toys or switch back to food.  It’s ok if you use food to train in public or challenging locations while you work your toy play at home, but make sure you also make a point of going places without too much distraction specifically to work on your toy skills.  You may not care today, but you will care over the long run.

If you can get your puppy focused on a range of toys – whatever you offer – then work on getting your puppy focused on you AND the toy; not simply winning the toy and taking it away.  You can go back through this blog of Lyra’s development and see plenty of examples of how to do that. To test this, ask your puppy to do simple behaviors while holding the toy; if you get the behavior then play with the puppy. You then know that you MATTER; owning the toy in not enough for your dog – good for you!

I think the main reason trainers lose their puppy’s play drive is because they get tired of working hard….food is so easy compared to toys, and it works so well.  But this is a short term perspective wtih long term costs.  Over the long run, you want a balanced dog, or one slightly heavier on the toy interest.  Be prepared to invest yourself in the process. You’ll have to run, wrestle, play, laugh and interact – in a very real manner – if you want your puppy to learn to focus on the package of interaction which is..you!

Protection Training (IPO)

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In addition to obedience, all of my dogs compete in the sport of IPO – formerly known as Schutzhund. IPO stands for Internationale Prüfungs-Ordnung.

IPO is a three part sport which includes Tracking, Obedience and Protection phases – the dog must pass all three phases in the trial.  To succeed in the protection aspect of the sport, the successful IPO candidate must possess a basic level of instinctual drives, solid nerves, desire, and willingness to perform the work with their handler.

The specific drives which must be present are prey (desire to chase an object based on visual cues) and fight (desire to defeat the prey object).  While it’s helpful if the dog possesses other drives, they are not nearly as essential as strong prey and fight drives.

When we talk about “nerves” we are referring to the dog’s core confidence.  A “nervy” dog is one who gets stressed and worried easily – often flipping into forward aggression or fear inappropriately or very easily.   A dog with “solid nerves” does not see a threat easily, and is much easier to train in the sport.  Personally, I would think twice about training a dog with weak nerves in the sport of IPO.

Ok; that’s your introduction to the sport – boiled down to the absolute basics.

Now for my personal philosophy.

I believe that IPO is a SPORT – I have absolutely no interest in creating a personal protection dog.  I do not want my dogs to feel angry or defensive when working in the sport of protection – I want them to percieve the helper (person doing the rag or sleeve work) as a friend – a worthy foe who takes all of their attention for a difficult but rewarding game.  I want my dogs to believe that if they fight their hardest – giving everything they have, then they will win the fight.  I want them to believe that any pressure moves shown to them (yelling, hard frontal pressure, waving stick, etc.) are all threat but no substance – nothing they cannot overcome with the correct countering moves.  Trained this way, IPO is no more than a very hard game of tug of war – between friends.

Understanding this philosophy is critical to understanding the videos I will share here of  protection training.   Trained well, all of the principles of good motivational training apply to the sport of IPO.  The dog should remain happy, clear headed, forward and social.  At it’s most refined, a dog working in IPO has no conflict with either the handler or the helper; we are a team of three.  The dogs bite, release and perform obedience with confidence, acceptance, and a great love of the sport.  Indeed, it is watching my dog’s reactions to the sport that causes me to keep coming back – my dogs are bred for this work and it is obvious that it is their sport of choice.  They do the game of obedience for me and I offer the game of protection in return.

I owe the protection sports and several top notch helpers a great debt, since that is where I learned about drives and how to play with a dog using toys.  Since that time I have played with hundreds of dogs and I have learned from all of them.  I still believe that the root of all good play is based in the drives which are expressed in the protection sports, and therefore I continue to study protection work carefully to refine my own techniques and play skills.

If you decide to pursue protection sports with your own dog, it is important to understand that there is more bad training going on than good training – so pick your club and helper with great care.  Watch several sessions before bringing your dog out.  Check to see how the dogs are being trained and how they are reacting to that training.  Note the interactions between dog, helper and handler; do you see teamwork or conflict?  Think about ten times before working  your dog in a seminar with someone you are not familiar with – the damage a helper can do in five minutes can takes months to repair.

To introduce you to the sport, this first video is of my eight year old dog Raika – she’s currently preparing for her IPO 3 title.  Here you can see very good protection work; the helper knows exactly what he wants to see, and he knows how to communicate that information.  He is kind with Raika, and in return, she adores him.  Before the session began, the helper and I discussed what we would work on in this session, how we would accomplish those interests, and which “faults” we would ignore for the time being.

This video is two minutes, clipped from an eighteen minute session.  That is a long training session for protection work, but because Raika knows how to switch from a driven state to a calm one, she is able to work for a very long time with a clear head and a calm mind.  Indeed, she was asking for more work within thirty minutes of being returned to the car.

Raika is working on several skills.  First,  I insist that Raika heel with attention onto the field with a clear head.  She tries to “sort of” heel – that is not acceptable, because it suggests her drives and control are not in balance – left unchecked that will become hysterical or out of control behavior.  By holding the line, I can communicate to her that she must remain in control of herself, even in this sport where all she really wants to do is go to the helper.  She is corrected several times for failing to heel with attention – note how I drive her backwards with my body.  Compulsion is not required when a dog respects pressure – in the end I always win, regardless of the sport I am teaching.  Raika knows that and “gives” to me within thirty seconds or so.  That thirty seconds of “do it my way or don’t do it all” paid off – for the rest of the working session she was obedient to me and completely without conflict.  We are a team.

Second, we are teaching her to bark in the blind but to be silent on the open field – a “silent guard”.  This is a change from what she learned originally; in the past she was allowed to bark on the open field, so now she’s unsure of what is expected of her.  To teach this, she receives a bite when she barks in the blind but when she barks on the open field the helper turns away from her – she knows that ends her opportunity for a bite.  I reset her and we start over.  This is her sixth or seventh session working on this skill and she performs flawlessly, so you cannot see a correction for barking at the wrong time – by now you probably know that my corrections never involve pain compliance or physical coercion.  The third skill we are working on is maintaining quiet confidence when I walk up to her side; I do not want Raika to look at me when she is guarding the helper, so she must be taught that my presence in heel position signals a bite is coming.  That is motivation enough for her to ignore me and she performs very well.  Fourth, we are working on the stick transfer in preparation for the “side transport”.  Raika must maintain a vigilant and quiet guard as I remove the stick from the helpers hand.  Finally, Raika is expected to maintain heel position next to me but with her eyes on the helper when we move around the field together – this is preparation for the “back transport”.  To accomplish this goal, the helper is walking in a small circle with Raika and I in the center; if she maintains “contact” heeling with me but visual contact with the helper, she receives a bite.

Without a great helper there can be no great training, so I’d like to express my sincere appreciation to Bart de Gols for his excellent helper skills and his commitment to training without conflict.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xM_utzn1cFM

Cisu’s Next Adventure

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Cisu is nine years old and has her OTCH, Schutzhund 3 and FH titles, but she’s definitely not ready for retirement.  So…what to do with an older lady who is probably past her jumping days, but has an excellent brain attached to an enthusiastic body?

How about the new AKC non-titling class, Advanced Teamwork?  If you have absolutely no idea what I’m talking about, check out this video with Laura Romanik and her very successful obedience sheltie:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bfLdzBuk1c  If you prefer to do the reading, the rules are in Chapter 15, page 67, under non regular classes:  http://www.akc.org/pdfs/rulebooks/RO2999.pdf

I’ve had my eye on this class for awhile but it seemed like a lot of training for a non regular class.  Now I’ve changed my mind – it looks like an awesome challenge for us, and Cisu has enough titles attached to her name already.  I’ve even found a trial where we can debut – that’s in July of 2012.  Plenty of time to get it worked out, more or less.

The purpose of this video is not to show the finished exercises; that is already done very well in Laura’s video above.  The purpose of Cisu’s video is to show just how much new training you can get done in very little time, how much fun the two of you can have, and how you can handle it when your dog makes a mistake.  As you can see, Cisu tries her hardest all the time, so there is no logical reason to ever punish her.

Today’s training session was about eigth minutes long.  In that eight minutes, we worked on every new exercise except the baseball diamond gloves and the scent articles.  Good training is fast paced but does not drag on forever.  It is reasonable to expect very good work for ten minutes; it is less reasonable to expect that for thirty minutes straight.  And really, at the ten minute mark your dog’s brain is going to be pretty full and needs time to digest.

If you want to have some fun, go through the video and identify what exercises I’m teaching with the various things we do together; note that i’m often working on two or three exercises at the same time.  For example, I’ll do a moving stand, and then I’ll switch over to position changes.

Here’s Cisu in week 2 of her training.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRv95wbyzsA

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