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Monthly Archives: February 2012

The “other” Emotions

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Emotions are part of dog training.  We cannot escape them, nor should we try.  Indeed, when it comes to the “positive” emotions, I’m a big fan of making sure the dog knows how I am feeling.  I addressed that a month ago in my post “The Happy Emotions – A Party for Two”.  Sharing your happy emotions with your dog allows you to reduce the use of food and toys in training, making for a better transition from the training grounds to the ring.

Unfortunately, not all emotions are positive.  We also have other emotions…the ones we try hard not to show, but feel anyway.  The majority of the time training should be highly enjoyable; I would hope that your typical emotion ranges somewhere between neutral and positive during training sessions.  But sometimes you’ll find other emotions coming up.

As a professional trainer, it is easier for me to keep my emotions in check because of the luxury of experience; I know what matters, and what is probably inconsequential in the long run. In time, you will learn this too, but until then, you need to make sure that your head and heart talk to each other. This will allow your rational mind to win when your irrational or negative emotions attempt a hostile takeover. Some of the most common negative emotions in training are frustration, anger, embarrassment, and anxiety.

When you find yourself feeling frustrated, put the dog away; unchecked frustration tends to turn to anger. Mentally review the approach you are taking with the exercise and the expectations you have set.  Rather than asking yourself if the dog is progressing slowly, ask yourself if it matters.  Sometimes it is inconsequential; you simply expected to be further along at a given point.  Other times it does matter, because it suggests that the method is not the right one for the dog.  If you decide that a change in method is the answer,  make those changes, and remember that since you’re starting over, you need to give the new plan a reasonable amount of time to succeed.

If you decide that you’re using the right method but the dog is a little slow getting it,  relax – accept your dog as an individual – and give both of you more time.  To let go of the frustration, remind yourself that you’re not in a training race, so sit back and enjoy the process.  If you are frustrated because your dog is not living up to expectations, take a look at my “talent and puppies” article.  Convince yourself that your puppy or dog has not blossomed yet.  If you are past that stage, work to accept that your dog is doing the best that she can, under the circumstances of you as a trainer and her as a unique temperament.  Let it go, or avoid training until you can find a way to make it better.

If you feel angry, STOP TRAINING.  Having seen a lot of angry training, I can say that, without fail, good training decisions are never made under the influence of anger, and indeed can lead to some spectacularly bad ones.  Training decisions made in anger can set you back months. Put your dog away – call a friend or a training partner and work through your frustration verbally, not with your dog.  Lock yourself in the house if you must, but absolutely do not train until you are calm and rational again.

Embarrassment is complicated, because it’s usually the result of an unexpected situation and therefore can’t be planned for.  One effective strategy for dealing with embarrassment is simply to admit it….if your dog has a disastrous run, come out of the ring and admit it.  “That was so embarrassing.  She looked terrible!”  When you admit you’re embarrassed, people have a way of being sympathetic.  Sympathetic people are a lot more supportive than smug people, so you might as well get people on your side.  It doesn’t matter what training method you use, or what method those outside the ring use.  Keep the discussion focused on the issue at hand – you and your dog had a bad day at the show.  That IS the issue.  If you keep that focus, you’d be surprised at how quickly everyone will be swapping their “most embarrassed moments” stories.  Cheer up – you’re not the first dog trainer to feel like a fool.

If your embarrassing episode also had a training component (your dog gets into a fight with another dog in the middle of a class, or runs away and takes twenty minutes to be caught), it can take embarrassment to a new level.  It’s particularly bad if you have some sort of authority in that class, such as being an instructor.  The desire to show people that you are “doing something” causes bad decisions – decisions not designed to further our dog’s training,  but to satisfy our need to show others that we are taking control of the situation….even when “non-action” might be the best strategy.

If something embarrassing happens and you are in a position of authority, make the best decision for your dog at that moment.  Use the experience as a learning opportunity for your students at a later time.  The next week, as class begins, take five minutes to review what happened, what your choices were, which one you selected, and why.   If you are a participant in the class, return the next week and make amends to the best of your ability.  Talk to the person who was involved, apologize if appropriate, and explain your actions.  If you master your embarrassment, you can take a negative experience and turned it into an educational one.  It may be hard to feel it at the time, but people have a great deal of respect for trainers who put their dog’s welfare about their ego.

If you are feeling anxious, identify exactly what is causing you concern.  Usually this part is easy.  Maybe your dog breaks on the stays, leaves the ring, or shows aggression towards other people or dogs.  Learn all you can about your problem area.  Do research.  If your dog’s problem affects only you and your dog, then you have some freedom; develop a strategy to help your dog feel more comfortable so that she can perform at her best.

If your problem area affects other people or other dogs, you need to do some serious soul searching.  The single hardest question I am ever asked is, “do you think my dog is ready to trial?” when it has exhibited aggression towards other people or dogs.  My answer is always the same, “if any part of you has a concern, then you are not ready.”  You know when your dog is safe; you will feel it in the way you interact with them.  If you are asking the question, you are not ready.

As a rule, you’re trialing too early if you feel anxious about what your dog “might” do.  You should KNOW what your dog is likely to do.  It’s ok if you’re managing behaviors for the life of the dog.  It’s ok if your dog occasionally barks or misbehaves to get space.  It’s not ok if you’re afraid that your dog might leave you and seriously frighten or hurt another dog or person.  When you know your dog is safe, you’ll be past asking the question.  If you get to the point where you feel your dog is not safe, and will never be safe, it’s normal to be sad or even a little angry. Recognize that you made a courageous decision – you will be a better trainer when you work with your next dog, and you will be well respected for your decision not to endanger others.

You can’t control how you feel, but you can control your actions.  The worst dog training decisions I’ve ever seen were made by handlers under the influence of negative emotions, in particular embarrassment and anger.   As I look back over my dog training career, I’ve experienced all of the above emotions.  I’ve made decisions that I’m proud of and others that still embarrass me to this day.  I don’t think it is reasonable to avoid all negative emotions when working with animals, but I do think that advance preparation for how we’ll respond when we experience them can allow us to make a better percentage of good decisions – decisions that we will be proud of with hindsight.   If you’re paying attention, you can catch changes in your feelings before your emotions are controlling you.

Lyra – 6.5 months – Scent work and Distractions

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A week ago I posted a video of Lyra working on heeling with significant distractions on the field.  I allow her to find the distractions and to discover for herself that working with me is endlessly more fun than self rewarding.  She worked, wandered, sniffed, and worked some more.

Someone commented to me that it takes “patience” to train that way.

I’ve been thinking about that comment, because I don’t consider myself a particularly patient person.   However, I am willing to make short term sacrifices if I believe it will fill a long term interest.  That is my perspective on distraction training with Lyra.

Today I videotaped Lyra working her articles – it’s only about 20 seconds long.  There are a few things you need to know to understand this video.  First, this is only the second or third time that Lyra has worked articles outside of her training room.  Second, this is the first time I’ve worked her articles with balls and toys in the pile.  Finally, she came out of the house cold and did her articles after a few seconds of heeling (note the toys on the ground, which she is oblivious to).  She never touched a toy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfGfbrGhEUM

Here’s the lesson that I take from this video.  Teach your dog to CHOOSE to ignore distractions rather than convincing them that you can MAKE them ignore distractions.  You might have to be patient for a few months, but after that the job is pretty much done.

Dogs that self train to ignore distractions are not stressed; there is nothing to stress about.  That allows them to perform work which requires thinking (articles, signals, directed jumping, Schutzhund out of motions) and not simply exercises that are performed by rote (AKC Novice and Open exercises and most of schutzhund).  People who compete in AKC and Schutzhund at the higher levels know which exercises are most likely to be failed – the ones that require decision making, and stressed dogs don’t tend to make very good decisions.

Dogs who are not stressed generalize better.  I never taught Lyra that she had to ingore distractions when working articles; she simply understands the concept of work before play, so she puts her toy down and goes to work.

Dogs who are not stressed learn faster.  Now that Lyra is six months old and beginning to show some true drive and maturity, I can teach her anything very quickly.  She wants to work and loves to learn – my job is easy.

Dogs who are not stressed get off the toys and food more easily.  If your training is stressful, then you must rely on toys and food to reduce that stress.  If, on the other hand, you never created it in the first place, there’s nothing to reduce.  Now you can focus on the joy that you have created in the work and in your interpersonal interactions.

Stress in the ring is a huge issue; ask anyone who is a trainer of competition dogs.  Some stress cannot be avoided; dogs shows can be very scary and overwhelming to many dogs, regardless of your training methods.  As a trainer you can avoid becoming part of the dog’s problem; that is where you may wish to focus your energies.

Lyra 6 months – distraction training

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I do not consider distraction training to be a unique stage of training; it is part of the overall process.  Distraction training starts from the day I bring a puppy home, whether I wish to work on distractions or not. Regardless, there are periods in training where I start adding harder distractions consciously - Lyra is just entering that phase, though she’s been preparing for it for months.

The fact is, distractions exist in the world.  For a young dog with high environmental interest like Lyra, a completely empty room is not distraction free.  She has discovered the window, which opens out onto things to look at.  She has discovered the floor, which offers opportunities to sniff.  She listens to dogs barking in the distance and cars pulling up in the driveway.  In short, the world is filled with distractions that I often cannot control.

Some dogs are highly sensitive to these environmental distractions and other dogs appear oblivious.  Dogs with high interest in whatever rewards you may be offering are the most likely to ignore these uncontrolled distractions, because they are barely aware of them.  They are focused on the food, toys or other attractive alternatives that you may be offering.  Being “unaware” makes the trainer’s life easier, because both parties can focus on skillbuilding.  On the other hand, being “unaware” means the dog is not learning how to ignore distractions or to function in spite of them, and owners do not develop the skills of training through them.  When the food and toy rewards are no longer obvious and visible to the dog, the distractions suddenly loom larger than life, and it can be frustrating to deal with them.

I don’t consider one kind of dog or learning curve “better” than the other, but it does illustrate the point that training should be individualized for the dog, and many perceived benefits like high food drive may well have costs associated with them when the food goes away.

Dogs with high environmental awareness or relatively low drive need patience and time, even in the most simple environments.  They will still learn, albeit a little slower.  On the other hand, they are developing valuable practice at ignoring miscellaneous “noise” in the environment, so later distraction training may well be easier.

Lyra has high environmental awareness and modest food drive.  For the first four months, she flipped in and out of work.  She still does, though it’s not very common anymore.   While the general direction has been towards better attention and focus, her developmental curve has been slower than most of my other dogs.

Today, the benefit of this developmental curve was driven home to me.

Lyra has started to ignore or walk away from more intense distractions in the environment, and I have learned how to manage her at different levels of engagement.  Lyra knows that the worst thing that will happen when she checks out is that I’ll end the training session and put her back in the house.  She also knows that I won’t beg or plead for her to work, beyond a simple request or two that she return to me.

My energy (high), plus my approval (obvious), plus our training history (fun), plus our relationship (valuable),  plus a toy is a very powerful combination  The alternative is Lyra alone with Lyra’s favorite toy on the training field.  Lyra is self training to understand that while toys in the training area are interesting, they are nothing compared to what she gets when she works with me.

If she wants my approval, energy and 100% attention, she needs to give these same things back to me.  My interaction mirrors hers.  If I like what she is doing, I’m 100% there with her.  If I don’t like what she is doing, I withdraw those qualities.  And if she’s in the middle (finds a toy and tries to get me to interact on her terms), I’m supportive and kind,  but I’m not the package deal.

If Lyra were ever punished for picking up a random toy instead of working for it, she would learn to “get around” me, waiting for opportunities when she could grab the toy and I could not stop her.  In the obedience ring, this often shows up as excellent attention and work on leash or in heel position (where the owner can grab the dog) and a distinct correlation between distance from owner and loss of attention and control.  I do not want to trial with a dog that I cannot trust reliably off leash and at a distance.

This method will not work if your dog does not value training time.  Value comes through time working together in a positive manner, combining toys, food and fun.  This method also will not work if it is hard for you to “let go” and allow your dog to make choices.  If that describes your situation, work on those issues first.

In this video, distractions include sheep which are newly visible from the training yard.  There is quite a lot of residual food smell (not food) on the ground from earlier training sessions with student dogs.   There are several toys on the ground.  Her favorite is the “frenzy’, the toy with a sheepskin top and many leather pieces hanging down.  Her second favorite toy is the Leather Rag – one long solid piece.  There is also a ball.  There is a dumbbell that I use for retrieving but I have never used that as a toy, so she sees the dumbbell retrieve as a means to “earn” a toy.  There is a platform which is also a means to a toy.

As the session begins, note that I allow Lyra to find all of the options on the field – I want her to be aware of what options exist,  so that she can make choices.  Watch my reactions to Lyra’s enthusiasm for the toys she finds – I’m neutral if she finds them and stays away, and slightly positive if she brings them to me.  Watch the change in my demeanor as she gives up on the toys and begins to work for me.

Note that she leaves heeling once to bring me a ball (38 sec.).  I don’t feed her decision with energy.  She soon figures it out and then works 100% for me – no residual looking back at the ball or resentment to being asked to work.

When I ask for a retrieve (1:55 sec), she doesn’t’ even look at the ball as she goes by.

She finds a smell on the cement (2:15) and does not bring the ball back.  I ignore her (don’t feed it with energy) and take her ball.

She then brings me her dumbbell (2:40).  I will always acknowledge that positively but I don’t reward it with a toy because I did not ask for it.

For the next minute or so she wanders and sniffs.  Clearly she has discovered smells she did not know about earlier.  At her age, I simply ignore it.  With a well trained adult who normally chooses work, I would have ended the session after requesting that the dog return and being ignored.  Lyra is too young for me to worry about it, so I wait her out.

When she returns (3:45sec) you can see that she’s not so engaged anymore.  My energy also drops until I bring out the toy, at which point she comes alive again.  I mirror her energy once more.  I had the option of rewarding her choice to return with a lot of energy, but I did not do so on this occasion.

She works nicely for awhile.  Then at 5:50 sec she lays down to keep her toy and chew on it.  When she realizes I’m disengaging, she drops the toy and looks to me for direction.

I ask her to heel holding her toy (6:25 sec).  She can carry the toy or drop it; her choice.   She does both. Then she heads for the platform because she thought I would ask for that behavior.  That is NOT leaving work; it is a misunderstanding, so I simply encourage her to come back and heel.

I then send her to retrieve her dumbbell while holding her toy (7:10).  After she makes a good choice, I end her lesson.  The ability to leave a toy behind in order to work is an excellent barometer of where she is at with distractions – she’s getting strong!

There is no fight in Lyra’s training.  No begging,  arguments, dominance, fear or intimidation.  I win by refusing to give energy to behaviors that I don’t want to see.  It’s important that she try out self satisfying, so she can choose to remove that option from her repertoire of behaviors.  Setting this foundation now will pay huge dividends later when I am working her at much higher levels of drive and expectation – notably in protection work and as her drives mature.  The habit will be set; work with me or through me but never around me.

This video is unedited start to finish, so that you can see my various reactions to her choices.

Lyra – 6 months

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Lyra is six months old now; a lot has happened in the four months that I’ve had her.

I’m delighted to see that she appears to be through her “wierd puppy” stage.  She’s consistently social with people and confident in new situations – indeed I consider her overall temperament and stability to be her greatest strength.  The advantage of a genetically sound puppy is simple….you can put your energy into training rather than working through problem behaviors or a low threshhold stress response.  Lyra is emotionally stable and confident; this is the temperament I saw at ten weeks of age, and it appears to be her true nature.

In terms of work, I haven’t tried to teach her many new behaviors in the past month, because I don’t have the drive that I want and I don’t want to inadvertently create a ‘habit’ of working in a calm manner.  To move forward, I need more energy and drive.

Three things need to take place in order to make that happen.  First, Lyra needs to mature.  It’s not clear when this maturity will come, but since I’m a believer in genetics, and since her genetic package is good, I expect she’ll get there when she is ready.  She’s not ready yet and pushing her would be counter productive.  Second, I need to continue offering lots of fun opportunities to play and work for me in as many environments as possible – I shoot for five seconds of excellent work with energy and drive rather than several minutes of mediocre work. Every time she works hard for me I give her another chance to choose – more work or….taking a break.  Third, I spend plenty of time with her every day, simply interacting at whatever level she is capable of.  Sometimes we work.  Sometimes we walk and observe the environment.  Sometimes I scratch her head and cuddle with her in the house.  This is always one on one quality time with no other dogs around to compete.

In terms of what she does know….she knows all of the elements of heeling (left, right, fast, slow, etc.), but she lacks the coordination to perform them well at higher speeds or with less help from me.  She has a very nice, straight front.  She can finish both left and right, but requires a hand signal.  She knows down and sit most of the time, though lately she’s been confusing them at times, especially if she’s at a distance from me.  I’m adding in stand now, but I give her plenty of help.  She retrieves her dumbbell to front but without a sit.  Her dumbbell retrieve is good; nice grip on the bar; now she needs to increase her speed.  Lyra’s send around an object (usually a garbage can) is getting there; she almost always runs back and is starting to canter a little on the way out.  She understands scent discrimination and I can use a variety of different objects as the correct or incorrect ones.  She has a basic understanding of “go” to a target or a platform – now I want speed and drive.

I did teach her the beginnings of  a stay, so she can sit or down with my dogs for about 30 seconds or more.  I don’t plan to use a “stay” command in her work until her drive has increased – stays are boring unless the dog is anticipating an intense release.

I’m working on her informal retrieves; sometimes she brings a ball or a toy back and sometimes not, but clearly we are headed in the right direction.  It will come eventually.

Her bite quality for schutzhund remains good; she has a full, quiet bite.  She has started schutzhund with a helper; only three sessions so far, but very good improvement between them.

Soon I’d like to add in tracking; something tells me she’s going to be quite good at it, and I want to get started this season.

With my other dogs, she has managed to get everyone to play with her; an exceptional feat since I haven’t seen Cisu or Raika play with a dog or puppy for several years.  At this point she is the prime playmate for every doggy member of the household and everyone plays with her on a daily basis.

Her recall is reasonable but definitely not reliable.  She chews up stuff in the house; my fault for leaving it where she can get it.  She is not housebroken – I have to remember to bring her out because she does not let me know when she needs to go out.  She still asks to go out once a night so maybe she has a slow developing bladder.  In spite of these shortcomings, Lyra is probably the easiest dog I’ve ever had to integrate into my household.

So there it is; one six month old puppy with lots of good stuff and plenty to work on as well.

Lyra 5.5 months – play as ????

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Playing with a mouthy puppy is different than playing with an adult, and takes a fair amount of trial and error to figure out what works best.

I don’t get upset with Lyra for biting when we play; I simply stop moving and wait for her to let go.  At this point, she tends to go for my jacket.

I’ve learned that if I keep my hands open and push the sides of her muzzle while she is in between my legs, she is the less likely to bite than when she is facing me.  This lasts for about ten seconds at the most, after which she gets too wound up and the teeth start flashing.  When Lyra was a very small puppy, she was good for no more than three seconds before the teeth came out, so we’re heading in the right direction.

My end goal is personal play with me rather than toy play, but this will take time and lots of practice to get there.  What I am looking for now is happy, interactive engagement.  I want her looking up at my face and interacting with me as much as possible, whether or not one of us is holding a toy.   To get this, I use unusual noises, clapping and body movement.  I also use the movement of the toy or food – this will keep her engaged in the game for a  greater length of time than I could get with personal play alone.  My experience is that if you play silently, most dogs will focus on the toy over the total interaction, so talking, clapping, and praising are really important right now.  If your goal is to improve your dog’s toy play, you might find that playing silently is a better choice for you, at least initially.

To help Lyra focus on the total interaction rather than the toy, I alternate between playing tug with the toy, playing with her while she holds a toy in her mouth, and playing directly without a toy.  The toy normally winds her up and leads to biting, so sometimes I’ll work her for a food reward before trying personal play.  Regardless of what I am using, I encourage her to focus on my face, hands and movement.

Lyra is starting to put some of her energy into leaping and running instead of biting – small bits of improvement over time.  Leaping and running are normally how we start our training sessions.

I have included two videos.  In the first video, Lyra is being trained in the morning when she is in a relatively good mood.  Because she is “giving” to me, I don’t do a lot of chase games; I opt for more personal interaction and toy play.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PH9YvxS5-4

This second video was taken in the afternoon; it appears that Lyra simply wanted to nap.  This is not unusual for her – she has to grow older and develop her drive on her own schedule.  To offset her quiet behavior, I’m doing more running away chase games.

I cannot know what her adult personal play style will be.  I know that when Lyra plays with my other dogs, her preference is to wrestle and bite, and I hope to redirect that behavior into opposition reflex.  I also see some chase games, depending on who she is playing with, so maybe that interest will become  jumping up in their air and other activities that allow her to use her body.  She has too few skills to know how she’ll feel about games that involve personal contests between the two of us.   ‘

Lyra does like personal “hands on” contact in the house (petting, thumping, hugging, etc.), and I hope that I’ll find a way to incorporate that interest.  Maybe I’ll end up with a combination of jumping at my hands, direct physical contact against my body from the front or side, chasing me, pushing her muzzle or neck, and thumping on her sides and chest.  She might also get to the point where  she grabs my hands but does not bite down.

This is the last in my play series of blogs.  Now I would very much like to hear from other people who practice personal play.  How do you play with your dog?  What response are you looking for?  Can you take this behavior into the ring as a reward, or modify it somehow?  If you have a personal play style that really works for you, I’d love to see comments and video responses that demonstrate what you are doing.  Or if you have thoughts about other reasons that dogs play besides love of physical interaction, movement or contest, I’d love to hear about it – maybe that can lead to new games and a better understanding of how to interact positively with our performance dogs.   I’m looking forward to your replies!

Juno – play as movement

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Juno’s style of play is yet again different from Cisu or Raika; her style incorporates elements of each of the other dogs.

Juno’s natural style of play with other dogs is chase; chase and be chased.  Since I choose not to chase dogs, Juno has to chase me.   She is also very happy to grab hold of whatever is being chased and drag it to the ground – not my idea of a good time, so I modified that in her play by initially allowing her to hold objects when we played together.  At this time, she can chase me and body slam without biting.  I’m ok with that, but if that doesn’t work for you then redirect your dog’s energy back into work before the impact.

Juno tends to bark in play, but only if I run away from her.  I would never do that in competition, so it’s not a concern and I make no effort to change this response.

This video shows several specific play based games that I use with Juno:

1)  I give myself a head start and then allow Juno to chase me down.  If you aren’t comfortable with the body slam, ask for heeling when your dog arrives.  An easy way to set this up is to ask for a high hand touch and then take off running while the dog is still in the air.  You can see that Juno loves this game.

2) I use opposition reflex after I ask for heeling – this keeps her driving along next to me.  Basically, you are pushing the dog out of heel position so that they can drive back into it.  This is most successful with dogs that already love to heel, but if they are not there yet then use a cookie when they catch up.   If you do too much of this, you will induce crabbing and wrapping in heeling, so be careful.  Some dogs bite when they get back to you – be prepared to redirect to a toy while teaching the game.

3) I use a “race to the object” game.  In this example, I’m using her dumbbell.   As soon as it is clear that she will arrive first, I back up and call her in.  This is a great way to increase speed and drive to objects, as well as to play with your dog.  Notice that I encourage her to drive back into me by turning my back on her as she returns.  This should remind her of the chase games we played earlier.

I ended this session with more structured play; chase and hand touches followed by heeling work.

If I were to use a toy or food in her training session, I would have added that in as part of the play, rather than using the toy to reward specific exercises.  Juno is fluent on most of her obedience exercises, and I no longer want her thinking in terms of toys for correct work.  I want her to expect interaction for correct work,which may or may not include a toy. Juno has not had a toy in training for several days, but as long as she will play without one, I’m comfortable reintroducing it at this time.

If Juno had her way, she would work strictly for the ball – I think that is somewhat typical of young dogs.  But as a dog destined for competition, she has learned to accept that play is a fair substitute for hard work, and in about half of her working sessions she does not receive any other form of reward (ball or food).

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