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Last week I considered the pieces you would want to have in place to create the behavior chain called “drop on recall.”
This week I’m looking at the Retrieve on Flat.
Note that the foundation elements for the ROF exercise include the stay, the send, the automatic return, the release and the finish. If you want to set your dog up success then each one needs to be in place before asking for a full retrieve. Moreover, each of those pieces should be properly proofed before adding it to the chain, but that is beyond the scope of this particular blog.
Note that I test most of the elements with food. That way if I’m not happy with how a piece turns out it will not affect the actual retrieve.
This video is unedited.
If you’d like, next I can take one foundation element and consider ways to proof it. I’m open to suggestions, so if you’d like to see how I proof a specific foundation piece, leave me a comment.
Today is the last day to register at Fenzi Dog Sports Academy, so if you’ve been meaning to do that, don’t wait!
Can you dog come when called?
Can your dog drop on cue?
Can your dog back up on cue?
Those are basic foundation behaviors that you’ll want to teach for your DOR. But they won’t fold easily into a drop on recall until you’ve proofed each piece.
Can your dog come when called, even when a cookie is behind the dog?
Can your dog drop on cue when you’re holding a cookie at nose level?
Can your dog back up on cue, when you’re holding a cookie at nose level?
Now a little harder….can your dog do these things when you’re moving backward?
If you have all of those pieces, you’re well on your way to an “overtrained” dog, because a dog that can back up or drop when you’re also backing shouldn’t have too much trouble with a drop on recall.
Before you create a chain with known behaviors, test the behaviors that you have individually. Then string them together and see what’s what. If you don’t like a specific piece, pull it out for a little more attention. Then try again.
When I want to practice the DOR, I’m not going to practice the whole chain because I don’t need to; that takes unnecessary time and space. Instead, I’ll emphasize proofing the pieces of the chain.
This video is unedited – I made a few errors. That’s ok.
Consider if this exercise were the retrieve on the flat. What steps might I need for a strong foundation? How might I proof each one to ensure that the chain was strong? If you’re interested, let me know in the comments and I can do that one next.
When you’ve got the chains you want just how you want them, then consider joining me for my online class, Bridging the Gap. There we’ll take your nice chains and get them ready for competition. That class is enrolling now and runs 12 weeks – $125 for bronze:
Sometimes the simplest solutions are the best ones.
A while ago I did a blog post on “what’s more ___ than ___” You can read about that idea here.
Using that principle, let’s consider a dog that drops his head while heeling. Maybe on the first step, or left turns, or right turns, or on the fast pace or…you get the idea.
What’s more looking up than up?
Jumping up, with your head up.
First I taught Brito to jump up for a cookie. For some dogs that can be a bit complicated, so start from a standstill , then progress to a slow pace, then normal, etc. They’ll figure it out. If your dog is taller, then your hand would be higher – just up.
Now that you have that, let’s switch that to a generic hand touch rather than a cookie. And… here we go.
Problem on the start? Do a week’s worth of starts with a hand touch to start and reward every single one. We want our dog to love this game!
Problem on the about turn? Do a week’s worth of about turns with a hand touch at the exact point where the head drop tends to occur.
If your dog misses the hand touch, just try again until they succeed, and then reward.
Watch what happens. It’s like magic! You will find that your dog begins to hold a lovely, head’s up heel position, even on those tricky spots.
Here’s a very short video of Brito. The specific issues were the first step of heeling, and dropping his head when pivoting to the right, so those are the two things I worked on.
TODAY is the first day of instruction at Fenzi Dog Sports Academy! If you’re enrolled, head to your classroom, and if not – go get registered!
I rarely tell my dog when they make an error. Instead I’ll train better to make errors less likely.
And when I make an error? Same thing. There’s no reason for the dog to know if I can hide it. And if I can’t, then I’ll probably throw out a free “screw up” cookie and move on.
And the judge? What if the judge makes an error?
You can’t throw out a consolation cookie because that’s not allowed, but you can still do your best to hide the error from your dog.
If the judge miscues you in an exercise and you know what was intended, simply proceed as if the judge gave the correct cue. For example, you’ve just finished the retrieve and your dog is holding the dumbbell in front position. The judge cues “finish” instead of “take it”.
Don’t look to the judge – that breaks the exercise for your dog. Simply take the dumbbell as if the correct cue had been given.
How about in heeling? The judge cues you to turn left when you know it’s an about turn. Same thing, do the about turn.
How about if you do not know what the correct cue is supposed to be? For example, the judge simply gets muddled and forgets to cue you, or you cannot hear the judge, or you had forgotten the pattern?
Halt and wait for the judge to direct you onwards. But there’s one more thing. The important thing is that your dog have no idea that something just went wrong. Keep your expression neutral. Don’t look wildly around in confusion or break your connection with your dog. Treat is like a cued halt – not a sudden panic stop.
The following video is part of a formal run through that I was doing with Brito. My judge forgot what she wanted me to do, so gave no cue at all as I approached the wall. So I picked a direction and kept right on going. My dog never knew that something odd had happened and I got what I wanted – to see how my dog would do in a formal run through.
All is well. The important thing is that my dog’s confidence is 100% intact.
Here’s the relevant piece:
It doesn’t matter if your teaching, or practicing or competing. Keep your dog’s confidence intact and don’t let them know about errors.
If you’ve watched this and the only thing you can think is, “I can’t do decent footwork for heeling under any circumstances,” then consider taking the class, Healing Your Heeling Handling with Nancy Gagliardi Little at FDSA. As a retired judge with a strong interest in handling excellence, she can fix you. Indeed, you might find that you add several points to your score and create a much more confident dog simply by cleaning up your own behavior. The dog’s will follow.
We have 36 classes this term – if you’re interested in learning we have something to teach. I’ll be running Bridging the Gap (to get your dog off the cookies, practice proofing, and generalizing behaviors so you can compete) and Engagement (getting your dog to drive the start of work rather than relying on you to provide the energy). At $65 for a bronze spot, it’s a steal. Hope to see some of you there!
You got mad. Really really mad. And you did something that you regret. or…
You followed directions. Did what you were told to do, even though you weren’t too sure about it. And now you regret it. or…
You let someone else handle your dog, and they did things that you would never do. And now you regret it.
It doesn’t matter what happened; now you feel like crap. You did something to your dog, or you let someone else do something to your dog, and from your point of view, it was horrible.
One of the reasons that dogs get along so well with humans is their ability to forgive. To move on. To take each day as a new day and to live in the moment.
I’m not saying there won’t be some fallout because there probably will. But what matters more than the past is the present and the future.
Even if whatever you did went on for weeks, months or years, the odds that your dog will move on when you do is really pretty good. Not all dogs, but a fair number.
Do a little better going forwards. Give out a few extra cookies the next time you’re hanging out together; that’s a pretty decent doggy apology. Unlike a mistreated child, there will be no calling you out in therapy sessions twenty years down the road. It really will be over.
Unless you’re one of those woman who holds guilt to your heart like a drowning child, refusing to let go, but that’s not about the dog. That’s about you. How about considering the 99% of the time when your dog is living the coolest life with every possible comfort?
An extra cuddle and a hug will do a lot. The easiest, most no brainer training sessions for the next while. Your dog wins and wins and wins. Any signs of discomfort in your dog should be met with a smile, a few more cookies and the end of the session. Next time, make it even easier.
If you can move on, your dog can too.
It’s going to be alright. That why we love our dogs. They love us, even when they shouldn’t. And what’s super cool about humans is that we can plan in advance, so that in the future we really will do better.
I’m a good trainer. I am not a great trainer.
A great trainer sets up training plans in advance, splits behavior into tiny bits, keeps records of what they are doing, and in all likelihood – progresses more quickly than I do.
So I’m working on getting better, but in the meantime I don’t really have a problem, because what I AM good at is reading the dog in front of me and as a result, I get away with my occasional “less than stellar” training. My dogs rarely opt out, even when what I have to offer is fairly low value. That’s because I’m good enough for each dog that I train. Stress is kept low in training. I’m fun to be with. My dogs like me and as a result, it’s worth their while to play my games, even when I’m messing things up. I don’t pay enough attention to being a great trainer so I have to pay attention to my dog. Works for us. Good enough.
How good does one have to be to be “good enough?”
You need to be “good enough” that your dog wants to be there with you, even when you’re muddling along at a fairly low level of competence. Muddling along is not a problem if your dog chooses to muddle along with you.
When your dog begins to exhibit signs of distress then it’s time to stop and reconsider. Stress could be leaving, exhibiting stress signals, or becoming frantic or noisy. You’re not being good enough. At least not at this moment in time.
Good enough means that your dog is watching you with a clear head and positive body language. Not because your dog is hungry and you’re holding the food. Not because you have your dog on a leash and he can’t get away. Not because your dog is OCD for a tug or ball, and he simply cannot opt out no matter how much stress he is experiencing.
“Good enough” is up to the dog. Your “good enough” with one dog might be downright “under no circumstances” for another dog.
It doesn’t matter why your dog is opting out. If you use physical corrections in training and your dog would rather not train with you then you’re not being good enough. Stop and create a new plan. If you use force free training and your dog is getting whiny with frustration, you’re not being good enough. Stop and create a new plan. Regardless of the reason for your dog’s preference to opt out, physical or mental distress, you’re not good enough.
Your dog decides. Fortunately for us humans, our dogs are frequently quite tolerant of our muddling, and will cheerfully muddle along with us. But if your dog has other ideas, then see what you can do to rise to the occasion.
If you have a dog with a clear head, a stable temperament and an innate love of work, you may find yourself doing quite well with your dog in spite of your technically poor training – and that’s fine. That’s good enough. And if you have a dog with a trigger fuse, an unstable temperament and the working drives of a cat, then your training is about to take a quantum leap.